25.8.14

伊斯坦堡 (1) - 藍色清真寺 / Istanbul (1) - The Blue Mosque

不是叫藍色清真寺的藍色清真寺/The Blue Mosque is not named Blue Mosque

藍色清真寺在我心中是伊斯坦堡最有名的名勝之一,因為那是我少數知道名字的地標。事真上藍色清真寺並不是它的真正的名稱,它正確的名字是「蘇丹艾哈邁德清真寺」。據說「藍色清真寺」的來源是西方人因為寺內的藍色的磚瓦而這樣稱呼它。

The Blue Mosque is one of Istanbul’s most famous landmarks in my mind, it’s because it’s one of the few I know its name.  In fact, Blue Mosque is not its real name; its proper name is “Sultan Ahmet Camii”.  It’s believed the name “Blue Mosque” comes from how Westerners call it because of its blue tiles inside the prayer hall.

特別值得一提的是它的六座宣禮塔,只有聖城麥加和土耳其阿達納的清真寺同樣有六座宣禮塔。在興建時蘇丹因此被批評為傲慢,所以蘇丹出資建造麥加第七座宣禮塔來平息這件事。

The most special feature of this mosque is its 6 minarets.  The only other ones are the Ka'aba in Mecca and Sabancı Mosque in Adana.  Apparently the Sultan was criticized for thinking a bit too highly of himself.  Anyway, the Sultan overcame the problem by paying for a 7th minaret to be built in Mecca.



這六座宣禮塔據說是由蘇丹和建築師的溝通誤會而來,蘇丹告訴建築師「用金去建宣禮塔」(altın minare),而建築師聽到「建六座宣禮塔」(altı minare)。當然這事的真假己無從孝究,只能把它當故事聽一聽就算了。

Urban legend says the 6 minarets were the result of a misunderstanding between the Sultan and the architect.  Apparently the Sultan told the architect “to build the minarets in gold” (altın minare), but the architect heard “to build 6 minarets” (altı minare).  There’s no way to verify this tale, it is after all, an interesting story, that’s it.

 
六座宣禮塔/The 6 minarets
再來一張夜晚的/This one was taken at night


藍色清真寺算是我第一間拜訪的清真寺,除了知道入清真寺要脫鞋和男女分開禱告外,對它並無多少認識。

It’s my first real visit to a mosque, apart from you have to take the shoe off before going in, and men and women pray separately, I knew nothing about mosques.

到達藍色清真寺,拍了差不多是指定動作的照片,擺脫了在寺外兜售的小販後,入到庭院之內,才發現雖然庭院內有很多遊人,但它竟然能給我一種安寧的感覺,真是意想不到。

Taking a snap with the landmark is a must.  Once I got away from the vendors, I went into the outer courtyard; it’s surprisingly quiet despite the number of tourist there, gave me a sense of peace and tranquility.
 
指定動作/The I was here photo

 
庭院/The outer courtyard
入口的阿拉伯文/Entrance with Arabic script

進入到前庭,就被那層層疊疊的穹頂震憾了一下,進而俘虜了我的目光。然後發現前庭的面績其真是很大的,而前庭的面績和禱告大堂是大約相同,可想言之在禱告時那滿是信徒的場面

As soon as stepping into the inner courtyard, I was stunned by the complex exterior dome, which captured my gaze.  I then realized the inner courtyard is as big as the prayer hall itself, just imagine the number of people praying all together during praying time…

前庭/The courtyard
因為我在禱告時段到達,被拒諸於禱告大堂門外,所以有時間在前庭逛和拍照,拍得不亦樂乎

I arrived at the praying time; therefore I couldn’t go into the prayer hall.  So I had time to look around the courtyards and taking photos, which I had a lot of fun…

被拒於門外/You shall not pass!

前庭的廊道/The corridor in the courtyard

藍色清真寺的模型/A model of the Blue Mosque

舊的淨身泉/The old ablution fountain


現時的淨身泉/The current ablution fountains
樹上「長」出來的宣禮塔/A minarets “sprouted” from a tree


 清真寺 vs. 教堂/Mosque vs. Church

終於可以進入到禱告大堂,脫鞋,進寺,第一感覺好臭!一股氣味迎面而來,分不清是腳臭、鞋、體味還是地氊

Finally I was allowed to go into the prayer hall, after taking my shoes off and getting in, my first thought… it stank!  I was greeted by a strong odour; I had no idea whether it was the feet, shoes, body odour or the carpet…

當適應過氣味後,發現內裹其實是很靚很有特色的。看到穹頂的藍色磚瓦裝飾,藍色清真寺這個名字真是當之無愧。

Once I got used to the smell, I noticed the blue tiled ceiling on the dome, Blue Mosque is a well-deserved name.
 
美麗的藍色穹頂/The impressive blue dome

再來一張藍色穹頂/Another photo of the dome

循例的遊客相/The tourist snap

 雖然我不是教徒,但我在歐洲旅行的時候到訪過不少教堂,在我欣賞這清真寺時察覺到三處和教堂有分別的地方。

I’m a non-believer, but I visited many cathedrals and churches when I traveled in Europe.  Standing here inside in a mosque, I noted 3 differences between the two.

第一,在清真寺裹是沒有雕像和圖畫的。據說這是因為穆其林是禁止拜圖像的。所以阿拉伯的藝術品大部份都是阿拉會文雕刻或磚瓦圖案。

One, there’s no statues or painting in a mosque.  Apparently it’s because Muslim prohibits the worship of any figure.  Therefore, most Arabic arts are either Arabic script or beautifully patterned tiles.

阿拉伯文字和磁瓦圖案/Arabic script and patterned tiles

 第二,在這裹我看不到坐椅,所以感覺上地方顯得很大和空曠,並沒有一些教堂的擠迫感。禱告時所有人都是跪在地上禱告的。

Two, there’s no seating in the mosque.  Therefore it seemed very open and spacious, unlike some cathedrals and churches.  Everyone kneels on the floor when praying.

真大和空曠/So open and spacious

第三,因為大量的七彩玻璃和照明,感覺上比很多教堂光猛明亮。

Three, because of the large number of rose windows and numerous lightings, it seemed brighter and better lit than many cathedrals and churches.

光線充足/Very well-lit, full of light

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